Journal of a whisky enthusiast 2025 - Episode 6
Spirits lover and advisor at Le Comptoir Irlandais, I’ll be taking you on a sensory journey through the world’s most iconic distilleries at the beginning of each month. A must-stop for the curious and passionate alike — whether you’re into peated powerhouses or sun-drenched spirits!
You may know me from my tales about sherry bombs, smoky single malts, and other Scottish wonders… But this summer, I felt like opening a window to the sun: destination Martinique, its freshly cut sugarcane… and above all, its AOC agricole rum — one of the brightest gems in the world of spirits.
And what better stop than the legendary Saint James Distillery, nestled in Sainte-Marie on the Atlantic coast? More than a name, it’s a living institution, an open-air museum, and a place where you can literally taste history straight from the barrel.
Episode 6 : Saint James : A Rum of History, A Rum of Heart
Where Martiniquan tradition is savoured with passion
An unforgettable visit
This time, it was our beverage buyer Laurent who had the incredible opportunity to visit the Saint James distillery in March 2024. A once-in-a-lifetime experience he described to us with stars in his eyes — and some breathtaking photos to match!
Tasting sessions straight from the cask, deep in the aging cellars of Sainte-Marie… an immersive and rare moment reserved for a lucky few. The kind of experience that shows you — beyond words — what it truly means to meet a living, rooted, generous rum.
A rich and complex history
It all began in 1765, when Father Edmond Lefébure, superior of the Brothers of Charity monastery, founded a sugar plantation called "Trou Vaillant" near Saint-Pierre. There, he produced a cane spirit intended for export to the British colonies in America. Hence the English-sounding name: Saint James.
The distillery went through highs and lows, the rise of the sugar trade, slavery, abolition, revolts… and in 1902, it was miraculously spared by the eruption of Mount Pelée, which destroyed the city of Saint-Pierre.
In 1974, it relocated permanently to Sainte-Marie. Along the way, it registered its iconic square bottle in 1882 — designed to keep it from rolling around in ship holds.
And if you're a fan of liquid history, know this: Saint James still possesses a bottle dated 1885, considered the oldest known bottle of agricole rum. A true museum piece — but very real. Solid proof that this house embodies over two centuries of Martiniquan memory.
A pioneering legacy
Saint James was the first rum brand to release a vintage — long before it became standard in the world of spirits.
The brand has won countless awards at the Concours Général Agricole in Paris, at the Rhum Fest Awards, and has impressed international experts like Luca Gargano and the IWSC panels.
Key figures behind the legend
Luca Gargano, a name synonymous with excellence (and possibly worth an entire article on its own), is a cornerstone of the rum world. Founder and CEO of Italy’s Velier, he has spent decades championing rare and exceptional rums. Since the 1970s, he's explored and promoted authentic spirits, often through close partnerships with legendary distilleries like Caroni and Hampden.
At just 18, Gargano became a brand ambassador for Saint James — a formative experience that immersed him in Caribbean agricole rum culture. In 1983, he acquired Velier and transformed it into a global force, renowned for high-quality artisanal rums. Through exclusive collaborations, he redefined the market, captivating collectors and connoisseurs worldwide.
He also developed a rigorous classification system to identify exceptional rums based on their distillation methods, provenance, and authenticity. His personal collection exceeds 40,000 bottles, including some 19th-century treasures.
Above all, Gargano is an ambassador for authentic rum, highlighting craftsmanship, promoting responsible consumption, and preserving the traditions that make this spirit so rich and diverse.
Paulin Lambert, a 19th-century merchant from Marseille, acquired the "Trou Vaillant" estate in 1882. He trademarked the name "Rhum des Plantations Saint James" and introduced the iconic square bottle. Under his leadership, Saint James grew into a major reference for agricole rum, exporting widely to Europe.
Marc Sassier: the passionate guardian of Martiniquan authenticity
An oenologist by training, Marc Sassier has embodied the brand’s technical expertise and modern vision since 2003. As cellar master and president of the Martinique AOC Rum Syndicate, he plays a crucial role in defending and promoting agricole rum — a jewel of the island’s heritage.
His commitment goes well beyond overseeing fermentation, distillation, and aging. Sassier is both a tradition keeper and a forward-thinking innovator. Under his guidance, the distillery has harmonized ancestral know-how with modern techniques, offering rums that reflect their terroir while meeting international demand.
He’s also a key voice in AOC regulatory debates, ensuring that each bottle meets the highest standards of origin and quality. I’ve had the chance to meet Marc Sassier several times: humble, warm-hearted, and incredibly generous with his knowledge. He genuinely loves to share his passion for agricole rum and for Martinique.
AOC Martinique: a treasure to protect
Few people realize this, but Martinique is the only place in the world to produce AOC-certified rum. This label, awarded in 1996, enforces extremely strict criteria: approved cane varieties, fermentation timelines, soil types, distillation and aging methods, traceability…
Unfortunately, this gem is now threatened by the potential loss of reduced tax rates granted to overseas producers. These reductions compensate for the high costs of insular logistics. But they’re now being reconsidered at the European level. Without them, artisanal, seasonal, and high-cost agricole rum could be outpriced by mass-market molasses rums with fewer restrictions.
Supporting Saint James means supporting Martiniquan agriculture, biodiversity, craftsmanship, and a unique cultural model.
Technique, terroir, tradition
Saint James perfectly embodies the essence of AOC agricole rum, crafted exclusively from fresh sugarcane juice (vesou), not molasses — ensuring purity and vibrant aromas.
Fermentation lasts 24 to 36 hours in stainless steel tanks to preserve freshness. Distillation takes place in a traditional Creole column still, made of copper, using a continuous method that captures the rum’s full aromatic potential.
Aging happens in carefully selected oak barrels — both French and American — including ex-bourbon and toasted casks that impart subtle woody notes. Thanks to the tropical climate, wood-rum interactions are accelerated, creating bold and expressive profiles.
The distillery sources its cane from over 300 hectares of land around Sainte-Marie, including heritage varieties like blue and red cane — symbols of living agricultural heritage.
And Saint James is deeply committed to sustainability: it recycles bagasse (cane fiber), treats wastewater, and uses eco-friendly energy practices to protect its land for future generations.
From cane to cask
At Saint James, everything starts in the fields. Sugarcane is harvested at peak ripeness and pressed within 24 hours to extract the fresh juice (vesou). This living raw material is fermented immediately to preserve its vegetal notes and freshness.
Unlike industrial rums made from molasses, Saint James produces only agricole rum, in full compliance with AOC rules.
Distillation in Creole columns
Distillation takes place in tall copper and stainless steel Creole columns — iconic in the French Caribbean. These allow for precise, continuous distillation that produces rum at 65–74% ABV, rich in esters, dry, structured, and distinctive.
This method highlights the terroir and cane character — vegetal, floral, and sometimes even salty depending on the parcel.
Tropical aging, intense results
Saint James’ aged rums rest in tropical warehouses on-site in Sainte-Marie. Heat and humidity accelerate wood extraction, leading to fast but intense maturation. The "angel’s share" can reach 8 to 10% annually!
Types of barrels used:
Ex-bourbon barrels (American oak) – vanilla, coconut, caramel
French oak barrels (Limousin style) – tannins, spice, depth
Wine casks – for unique limited editions (e.g., port, red wine, sherry)
This tropical aging gives Saint James rums remarkable concentration, silky texture, and deep complexity.
Rum navigation cheat sheet
Ever wondered what rum, rhum or ron means? Or what those mysterious XO/VSOP/VO labels stand for? Here’s your no-fuss guide:
Rhum: French-speaking areas (Martinique, Guadeloupe) → distilled from fresh cane juice. Result: intense, vegetal, peppery. That's agricole rum.
Rum: English-speaking countries (Jamaica, Barbados) → made from molasses. Richer, funkier, heavier.
Ron: Spanish-speaking countries (Cuba, Venezuela) → molasses base, but smoother, lighter, often a bit sweet.
Aging mentions (inspired by cognac terminology):
VO: at least 3 years
VSOP: at least 4 years
XO / Hors d’âge: 6 years or more
If you see a vintage, it means the rum comes from a single harvest and single aging — like a fine wine!
Strong roots in volcanic soil
The Saint James distillery is rooted in volcanic terrain on Martinique’s northeast Atlantic coast.
This exceptional natural setting defines the quality of its rums. Mineral-rich soils nourish robust cane; Mount Pelée — ever-present — shapes both landscape and spirit.
A morning in the heights of Sainte-Marie offers golden sunlight, misty cane, and ocean views. It’s here that great rums are born.
The steady warmth and marine breezes allow for even cane maturation and excellent aging conditions, making tropical maturation a game changer.
Strong roots in volcanic soil
The Saint James distillery is rooted in volcanic terrain on Martinique’s northeast Atlantic coast.
This exceptional natural setting defines the quality of its rums. Mineral-rich soils nourish robust cane; Mount Pelée — ever-present — shapes both landscape and spirit.
A morning in the heights of Sainte-Marie offers golden sunlight, misty cane, and ocean views. It’s here that great rums are born.
The steady warmth and marine breezes allow for even cane maturation and excellent aging conditions, making tropical maturation a game changer.
Saint James & Le Comptoir Irlandais: a trusted partnership
For years, Le Comptoir Irlandais has proudly offered Saint James rums. Some vintages were even available exclusively at our stores. The classic lineup still shines on our shelves — a sign of enduring trust between expert retailers and a storied rum house.
This partnership is built on shared values: quality, transparency, and passion for well-made products. Come discover our exclusive Saint James releases!
Bonus: Two cocktail recipes to travel by the glass
Traditional Ti’punch
Ingredients:
5 cl Saint James White Rum
1 small wedge of lime
1 tsp raw cane sugar or cane syrup
Preparation:
Squeeze the lime in a small glass, add sugar, then pour in the rum. Stir with a wooden spoon (or a cane stick if you’re lucky). Sip slowly in the shade of a tropical tree.
No need to overdo it — ti’punch is all about simplicity. “Everyone makes their own ti’punch” — it’s a mindset too.
Agricole Mojito
Ingredients:
5 cl Saint James XV
2 tsp cane sugar
6–8 fresh mint leaves
1/2 lime
Crushed ice or cubes
Sparkling water
Preparation:
Muddle lime, sugar, and mint in a glass. Add rum, top with crushed ice and a splash of sparkling water. Stir gently and enjoy.
Agricole rum brings vegetal brightness and spicy tension that gives the mojito a whole new soul.
Saint James is more than just a rum. It’s an invitation to smell freshly cut cane, hear birds singing at sunrise over the fields, taste the sea breeze in an old cask-aged bottle. It’s Martinique, bottled. And if you listen closely, you might just hear the distant beat of tam-tams...
Written by Philomène B.
