Wool fibre is covered in microscopic scales, much like a strand of hair. Under the combined effect of heat, water and friction, those scales open, catch on one another and never let go. The stitches tighten, the jumper thickens and shrinks: this is felting, and it cannot be reversed.
So remember three enemies: hot water, agitation and thermal shock. Everything else follows from those. An Aran jumper is particularly vulnerable, because it is thick, made of pure new wool, and its cables hold a great deal of water.
This is the single most useful piece of advice. Wool naturally resists stains, odours and creases, so it needs washing far less often than other materials. An Aran jumper worn over a shirt or a T-shirt does not need to go anywhere near water after every wearing. Two or three times a season is often enough.
Two habits do the job better than the machine:
Air it. To clear the smell of smoke or cooking, lay the jumper flat on a bed or a towel for an hour. In most cases that is all it takes.
Let it rest. Wait twenty-four hours before wearing it again. The fibre recovers its natural elasticity and returns to its original shape. This is why a jumper worn two days running loses its shape faster.
One more trick: hang it in the bathroom after a shower. The steam lifts the creases with no effort at all.
We recommend hand washing. Turn the jumper inside out, immerse it in clean lukewarm water at around 30°C, with a mild, pH-neutral detergent. Leave it to soak for ten minutes or so, then rinse thoroughly: first in lukewarm water, and only then in cold.
Three points make all the difference:
What about the machine? It can be done. Use the wool programme or, failing that, the delicate cycle, and set the temperature to 30°C. This cycle keeps drum agitation to a minimum, and agitation is what really causes felting. Whatever you do, turn the garment inside out before washing: it keeps its new look for longer.
Separate dark colours from light ones, including while wet, to stop them running. For a thick Aran, we still recommend washing by hand. The machine, even on a wool programme, remains a risk to take on a piece you care about.
This is the step most often got wrong, and yet the simplest. Always dry flat. On a line or a hanger, the knit stretches under the weight of the water and loses its shape. An Aran jumper full of water is heavy: one mistake is enough to misshape the shoulders for good. Lay it on a light-coloured, lint-free towel. Then reshape the jumper by hand, gently smoothing out the creases. Keep it away from any heat source. No direct sun, no light magnified through glass, and above all no radiator: the part resting on it dries faster than the rest, which can alter the colour or leave a mark. No tumble dryer, unless the care label explicitly allows it.
The little bobbles that appear under the arms or along the sides often worry people. They are not a sign of poor quality. Pilling comes from friction during wear. It forms mainly at the elbows and underarms, on the sleeves, the stomach and the sides, anywhere the arms rub against the body of the jumper.
Three habits keep it down: turning the garment inside out before washing, being sparing with fabric softener, and reducing friction wherever you can.
To remove the bobbles: by hand if there are only a few, with a comb used very gently, or with a fabric shaver. These little devices cost a few euros and restore the jumper's new appearance.
Wool is stored clean, never otherwise. Food stains and traces of perspiration attract moths, so always clean the garment before putting it away.
Fold it, do not hang it. A folded knit keeps its shape; hung for several months, it stretches.
Forget mothballs. Cedar blocks protect against moths and silverfish and smell infinitely better. Lavender works as an alternative. In both cases, never place the repellent directly on the garment. Choose fabric garment bags. Vacuum bags save space, but they stop wool breathing and can trap moisture. A cotton bag is safer.
Check your jumpers from time to time to make sure no damp or insects have settled in.
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